
The road into Loma
Parda |
In 1850, Lieutenant Colonel E. V.
Sumner took his first look at the U.S. troops stationed in Santa
Fe and the temptations offered to soldiers there.
He immediately determined to remove them from "that
sink of vice and extravagance" by establishing forts only in
remote areas.
The plains near La Junta seemed a likely spot since the Santa Fe
Trail came across there from Independence, Missouri. And, thankfully,
no large towns could deter the soldiers from their duties. Loma
Parda (Grey Hill), a small fanning community six miles away, was
the closest town.
Soldiers didn't need a town, however, to bring
them some of the delights that had been available in Santa Fe. Hardly
had Fort Union been completed in 1851 when a group of prostitutes
established
their trade in nearby caves.
A Captain Sykes ended the sinful practice by capturing
the women and shaving their heads; the caves now are a part of Cafion
de Las Pelones, Baldwomen's Canyon. |
But
enterprising merchants in Loma Parda realized that what caves could provide,
houses could provide better--or at least in more comfort. The town became
what is called a "blow off' town, where the soldiers would go to
gamble, dance, drink, and carouse with women. An officer named Hollister
dubbed the place "a sodom," allowing Ralph Looney, in Haunted
Highways, to make a memorable biblical pun by calling Loma Parda "Sodom
on the Mora."
The Mora River did indeed
run freely near Loma Parda, but it was Loma Lightning, a vicious whisky,
that ran freely through the town. Hollister complained that the fort's
guardhouse and hospital were filled with men who met up with the Lightning.
Julian Baca's dance hall featured live music twenty four hours a day,
and the thriving bordellos gave an ironic meaning to the name of the fort.
Commanding officers tried
various ploys to keep soldiers away, usually by making the town strictly
off limits. The most ingenious idea considered was to lease the whole
town and then destroy it. But by 1872 Loma Parda had become a town of
over four hundred, with its own post office. There was at least one establishment,
the McMartin brothers' mercantile, that did legitimate business with the
fort itself. Mainly, however, the offerings of the town were meant for
the wayward soldiers. In addition to the brothels and bars were pool halls
and dance halls that served a variety of libations, even champagne. Wagon
service to the fort was available for one dollar per round trip, but that
was far too expensive for the average soldier.

Julian Baca's Dance Hall and
Saloon |
Two stories will serve to illustrate
the violence and rowdiness of Loma Parda. One night in 1882 a soldier
named James Gray was murdered in town. His friends at Fort Union
went AWOL
dressed as cowboys and attended a dance at Loma Parda. By infiltrating
and asking the right questions, they ascertained the murderer, "invited"
him outside, and hanged him.
Then there was James Lafer's visit in 1888.
He rode into town, hauled a woman up into the saddle with him by
dragging her across his horse, and rode right into a saloon. When
his horse would not drink any liquor, he summarily shot it in the
head, grabbed the woman, and exited, leaving the horse dead on the
barroom floor. Many other anecdotes exist about Loma Parda, the
best in Lloney's book and in a pamphlet called The Loma Parda Story
by E Stanley.
When the importance of Fort Union began to
fade, so did Loma Parda. The post once lasted until 1900, or nine
years after the fort was abandoned. A few families kept farming
in the area, but by World War II it had been abandoned entirely.
The only bridge into town washed away in 1948 and has never been
replaced. A footbridge now provides access to the town. |
Shadowy
figures have been seen roaming about the town ruins at dusk by tourists
and locals. The stories here vary. Many say that the old townsite is haunted
by the spirits of prostitutes who come down from Cafion de Las Pelones.
Other reports claim that the ghosts are lost souls who lost their lives
in the town sometime during its violent past.
We
arrived just before dusk after almost canceling the ghost hunt because
of rain. Fortunately, the storms had moved off to the north and there
were only a few sprinkles when we arrived.
We
parked in the designated area and crossed a small footbridge to gain access
to the site. We moved north, investigating the ruins from the road. Lightening
in the area often triggered our equipment, so our readings have a possibility
of being natural sources. The strangest reading we picked up was near
Baca's saloon. The reading was 6 milligauss that held steady for 12 seconds.
Due
to the storms, we were limited on the type of detectors we could use and
eventually decided to just take photographs of the area.
Photographs
Click
on the thumbnails to view the larger image

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The
most interesting image is thumbnailed on the left. There are a variety
of opinions on what the object in the photo is and if it is a ghost
or not. On the skeptical side, the "figure" in the photograph
may be nothing more than a residual charge of the camera's CCD,
caused by taking the previous photograph during a lightning flash.
Since
no EM measurements were obtained while the photograph was being
taken, the image is inconclusive as any form of data.
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